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wave theory
The FFT analysis of radar image can detect the macro
structure of the wave field. And FFT estimates the wave
direction and frequency as uniform wave field. So it is
difficult to explain the error of radar observation. For
estimate the micro structure of wave field, we used the
optical flow model as follows.
Fig.9 shows the result of time series wave direction and
wave speed by SLO in micro scale. And Fig.10 shows the
9-D field of wave direction and wave speed by SLO
method. In Fig.10 the average speed using analytical
model, solitary wave model, is used for calibration the
result from the result of radar observation.
From Fig.9 SLO using radar image can estimate the wave
speed well. But the wave direction is not so good. For
explanation of this reason, Fig.11 is used. Fig 11 shows
time series of the wave direction and wave height. The
circle means the almost wave breaking
point by Goda's wave breaking inception. The average
error of the average of wave direction after neglecting the
breaking point decreased from 37.6 deg to 35.8 deg.
Fig 9 (c) and (d) show the wave direction field in almost
breaking. These image indicate the randomness of the
wave surface. This means the breaking wave is effective
for estimating the micro structure of wave surface.
6. CONCLUSIONS
The marine radar is effective for observing wave direction
and the accuracy is good for operational use. Another
wave parameter must be correlated by the corrected
radar image considering the shadowing effect.
Wave direction and frequency by FFT is not effective to
detect the macro structure of surface wave in nearshore
region.
Wave direction and wave speed by optical flow model,
SLO, can detect the micro structure of wave parameter,
such as wave speed and wave direction in nearshore
region. And this model can offer the complements of the
FFT image analysis.
REFERENCES
1) F.Ziemer, and W.Rosenthal : On the Transfer Function
of Shipbone Radar for Imaging Ocean Waves,
Proc.IGARSS'87, Ann Arbor, Michigan, pp.1559-1564,
1987.
2) F.Ziemer: Directional Spectra from Shipborn Navigation
Radar during LEWEL, DIRECTIONAL OCEAN WAVE
SPECTRA, pp.80-84,1989.
3) M.D.Henschel, R.A.Paul, and B. M. Eid : Use of
Satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar for ^ Operational
Measurement of Ocean Wave Spectra, Proc. ERIM
Second Themantic Conference: Remote Sensing for
Marine and Coastal Environments, New Orleans, LA,
Vol.1, PP.1-269 - |-273,1994.
4) Shintaro Goto, and Kiyonori lisawa: Study on the
Monitoring of 2-D Wave Parameter Using Simulated
Image of Marine Radar, Journal of Photogrammetry and
Remote Sensing, Vol.34, No.2,pp.36-44,1995. (in
Japanese)
5) B.K.P.Horn and B.G.Schunk: Determining Optical Flow,
Artificial Intelligence, 17, pp.185-203,1981.
6) J.K.Kearney,W.B.Thompson and D.L.Boley: Optical
Flow Estimation: An Error Analysis of Gradient-Based
Methods with Local Optimization, IEEE Trans. Pattern
Anal. Machine Intell.,PAM-9,ppp229-244, 1984.
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—— Wave direction by Radar
: Wave direction by Observational data
77977 Wave height by Observational data
Avarage error 37.6 deg (including Braking wave) © Almost braking point
Avaräge error 35.8 deg (not including Braking wave)
Braking wave inception (Goda)
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Fig 11 Time series of the wave direction, wave height and wave breaking inception
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