Full text: [A to Belgiojo'so] (Vol. 1)

  
ANDES. 
  
  
  
of about 9000 miles which loses itself near the 
mouth of the Mackenzie, towards the shores of 
the Arctic Ocean. In this respect, the old continent 
can bring nothing into comparison. 
Position.—The A., besides being generally in a 
direction nearly parallel with the Pacific, verge 
closely on that ocean. From the rocks, indeed, 
of Diego Ramirez to about lat. 40° 8., the 
mountains, whether they are found on islands or 
on the mainland, are almost literally washed by 
the surf ; while northward from that parallel, there 
spreads out, between the chain itself and the sea, 
a belt of land. not exceeding, in average breadth, 
70 or 80 miles. Within the limits of Peru, the belt 
in question is narrowest, while above and below it is, 
in general, somewhat more extensive. The position 
of the A. with respect to the Atlantic Ocean presents 
a striking contrast. To illustrate this, a passage 
is subjoined from Herndon, the explorer of the 
‘Amazon on behalf of the United States. Crossing 
from Lima to the head-waters of the Amazon, 
by the Pass of Antarangra, he writes thus : ¢ Yana- 
coto, on the western slope of the A., at the height of 
2337 feet above the sea-level, is only 28 miles from 
the ocean that washes the base of the slope on which 
it is situated ; while Fort San Ramon, at nearly the 
same elevation on the opposite side, cannot be much 
less than 4000 miles from its ocean by the windings 
of the river, and in the river’s direct course is at 
least 2500 miles.” Further, to compare the two areas 
respectively to the west and east of the dividing 
ridge, the former has been estimated at 180,000 
square miles, and the latter at twenty times as 
much. 
Hydrography.—This interesting feature of the A. 
has been already anticipated, to a considerable 
extent, under the heads of the Amazoxn and 
AMERICA. It only remains to observe that from 
one end of the continent to the other, the true 
and only water-shed, wherever there are two ranges, 
is the range nearer to the Pacificc Not only is 
the water-shed in question obviously far closer to 
the west than to the east, but, beyond this, it is, 
apparently without a single exception, pushed as far 
to the westward as possible; it thus affords the 
most conspicuous and most decisive example of an 
almost universal law in the hydrography of the 
earth. Throughout both continents, almost every 
leading water-shed presents a longer descent towards 
the east than towards the west, or, in other 
words, sends off larger streams in the former direc- 
tion than in the latter. To cite a few instances: 
compare, in North America, the Missouri with the 
Columbia ; in Europe, the Volga with the Neva ; in 
Asia, the Hoang-ho of China with the Oxus of the 
Sea of Aral ; and even in Africa, where, as also in 
Arabia, hydrographical trates have been largely 
overlaid by deserts of sand, the plateau of the 
Sahara and the chain of the Atlas gradually incline, 
both of them, towards the east. But, if the water- 
shed be invariably found as far as possible to the 
westward, it necessarily follows, that, wherever 
there are two ranges, the more easterly range cannot 
also be a continuous water-shed—unless, indeed, it 
may be regarded as such with respect to the land- 
locked basin of the connected lakes, Titicaca and 
Uroz, already mentioned under the head of AMERICA. 
‘With this exception, all the gatherings between the 
two ranges, whether the intermediate space be 
plateau or sierra, have found or formed channels of 
escape—narrow, deep, and dark as they often are— 
only to that sea which is thirty or forty times more 
distant than the one at their back. 
Breadth and Area—The area, on an estimate, 
necessarily rough and vague, has been computed to 
be triple that of the belt of comparatively level land 
238 
  
that borders on the Pacific. In other words, the 
average breadth of the chain is reckoned to be thrice 
that of the belt in question. In a rough way, the 
breadth may be estimated from the very shore of 
the Pacific, whence the west slope commences, to 
the lowest pongos, or cataracts, on the eastward 
streams. But it is more correct to measure it 
from the foot of the mountains, properly so called, 
on the one side to that on the other. The phrase- 
ology of the country, which, on such a subject, ought 
to be conclusive, appears to support the latter mode 
of computation. In Lima and its neighbourhood, 
where Herndon crossed the A., that officer speaks 
of “coast’ and ¢sierra,” as distinguished from each 
other even to the westward of the dividing ridge. 
The entire distance of the Pass of Antarangra, as 
measured on the actual road, was 87 miles—the first 
50 being coast, and the remaining 37 being sierra. 
Nor does the distinction seem to have been an arbi- 
trary one. From Callao to Cocachera—a line of 44 
miles—the rise above the sea-level, tolerably uniform 
the whole way, amounted to 4452 feet, or rather 
more than 101 feet to the mile ; but the next 15 miles, 
of which about a half still belonged to what was called 
coast, yielded an increase of 2850 feet, an average 
probably of 200 feet for that part of the stage that 
fell under the definition of sierra. To give instances 
of extreme breadths of the A.—an average breadth 
being unattainable—the least breadth, and that in 
Patagonia, is believed to be 60 or 70 miles; the 
greatest breadth, again, pretty nearly on the parallel 
of Lake Titicaca, and right through the grand 
plateau of Bolivia, is said to be 400 miles; and 
to give an intermediate case, the breadth from 
Mendoza, in the basin of La Plata, to Santiago, in 
Chili, is given at 140 miles—the former city being 
4486 feet above the Atlantic, and the latter 2614 
above the Pacific. 
In order, then, to havea definite idea of the breadth 
of the A., the chain must be viewed from one end to 
the other. In doing this, there will be adopted the 
ordinary nomenclature, referring each division of 
the A. to the particular country through which it 
may pass. 
Patagonian Andes.—Including, the A. of the 
Fuegian Archipelago, this part of the chain, ex- 
tending from lat. 56° S. to lat. 42° 8., a distance of 
more than 960 miles, is the narrowest of all, or is, 
at all events, too irregular to have its breadth 
accurately estimated. The Patagonian shore, strictly 
so called, is breasted, very much like the northe 
west coast between Fuca’s Strait and Mount St 
Elias, by a number of islands. On these, as already 
mentioned, the true A. are to be found, or rather, 
of these the true A. consist—the continent itself 
affording no footing to the“chain till fully 300 miles 
to the northward of Cape Horn. Even after the 
chain has laid hold of the mainland, it by no means 
can be said to abandon the islands; so that here, 
as further to the north, the chain may be regarded 
as made up of parallel ranges—the main difference 
being that the intervening valleys, which, to the 
north, are basins of fresh-water rivers, here present 
salt-water channels. 
Chilian Andes, stretching from lat. 42° 8. to lat. 
24° 8., a distance of nearly 1250 miles. Throughout 
nearly the whole of this line, the A. consist of only 
one range, for the parallel ridges, which run along 
between the great water-shed and the Pacific, 
cannot claim to be any exception to this remark, 
inasmuch as their highest points do not exceed an 
elevation of 2500 feet above the level of the sea. 
This part of the chain, however, presents several 
lateral ranges, if it does not present any parallel 
ones of importance. These spurs are to be seen on 
both sides, though of very different magnitudes. To 
  
  
  
  
  
  
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