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SYMPOSIUM PHOTO INTERPRETATION, DELFT 1962
straight. The bigger waves are broken off far out in the sea due to the shallow
beach profile. Thus they scour the sea bed and throw up sand to form a barrier
bar. With the appearance of the sand bar above the water, normally parallel
to the beach, a lagoon is formed. The Negombo lagoon with its straight coast
line is an excellent example of a coastline of emergence.
The dynamics of Negombo beach
There is some conflict of opinion about the origin of the material from which
an off-shore bar is made. This aspect is of great importance when one attemps
any beach protection work. Gilbert advocates the theory that the material
comes from longshore currents, while the opposite view, critically examined
by Johnson, is in favour of De Beaumont’s theory that the major part of the
material is derived from the ocean floor, as is evidenced by the fact that the
seaward side of the bar tends to overdeepen. Most bars are not continuous, but
are interrupted by openings commonly called tidal inlets. It is noted that the
Fig. 2